If using fresh beans: shell, rinse, and cook them in water. Keep them in their cooking liquid. If using cooked dried beans: set aside with their liquid and start with the next step.

Cut the bacon into 1-inch strips. Cook it over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the drained sauerkraut and cumin. Stir to coat well and cook 2 minutes.

Add 1 cup (240 ml) water, cover, lower the heat, and cook very gently for 1 hour. If liquid remains at the end, uncover and boil it away.

Peel the potato, cut into small chunks, rinse, and drain.

If using fresh pork jowl or other fresh pork rind: put it in a soup pot with 1 quart (0.95 L) water, bring to a boil, boil 5 minutes, drain, then cut into 3/4- to 1-inch strips. Return it to the pot with the potato, 3 cups (720 ml) water, and a large pinch of salt. Cover and keep at a slow, steady boil for 1 hour.

If using pig's feet or pork hock: cook the pork with the potato and salt in enough water to cover by 2 inches, covered, at a slow, steady boil for 1 hour. Remove pork, bone it, cut into 1/2-inch strips, and return it to the pot.

Add the beans with all their liquid, cover, and simmer slowly for 30 minutes.

Add the sauerkraut, cover again, and keep simmering 1 hour more.

Stir in the cornmeal in a thin stream, mixing it in thoroughly. Add 2 cups (480 ml) water, cover, and cook 45 minutes more at a slow, steady simmer, stirring from time to time.

Make the pestà: sauté salt pork and onion over medium heat until the onion turns pale gold. Add garlic and cook until very lightly colored. Add a pinch of salt. Stir in the flour a teaspoon at a time, cooking it until it becomes a rich gold. Stir the pestà into the soup and simmer about 15 minutes. Let the soup settle a few minutes before serving.